Gutland / Gotland, The History of Gutland

HERRGARDSKLING : FORTIFIED HILL-SITE ON GOTLAND – CLAN CARRUTHERS CCIS

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HERRGARDSKLING : FORTIFIED HILL-SITE ON GOTLAND

In this article, the author argues that the Gotlandic hilltop complex, Herrgårdsklint,
should be viewed as a fortiied hill-site (Sw. befäst höjdbosättning). This phenomenon
occured mainly on the East Middle Swedish mainland, where the fortiied hill-sites were
constructed by the late Early Iron Age period (AD 0–550) élite. The complex comprises
a 120 metre long and 2.5 metres high dry-stone wall of limestone built on a large cliff
and encloses an area of c. 1.5 ha, in which several signiicant house foundations of
limestone are visible even today. It was once given the antiquarian designation “clifffort”
(Sw. klintborg), a term which has contributed to a rather simplistic approach
from scholars. In past archaeological research, Herrgårdsklint, with the rest of the
constructions categorized as cliff-forts, has often been seen merely as a “temporary
refuge in times of unrest.” This perception has been challenged, however, by a new
approach that puts Herrgårdsklint in the spotlight of eastern Gotland during the Roman
Iron Age/Migration Period. A recently initiated project, which aims to remedy the weak
empirical situation regarding the diverse Gotlandic cliff-forts, has carried out new
analyses of the pottery and animal bone material found in a 1940s excavation of a
couple of the house foundations. Together with the observation of the architecturally
advanced stone wall’s entrance construction (which the author suggests is an imitation
of a clavicula-entrance of a sort used by the Imperial Roman army), the results indicate
that Herrgårdsklint should be viewed as a strongly fortiied permanent/semi-permanent
settlement, which controlled a large hinterland that specialized in beef production and
shows signs of close connections to R oman ideas.
288 Runsa Borg – Representative Life on a Migration Period Hilltop Site
Herrgårdsklint revisited: a fortiied hill-site on Gotland

GOTLANDHILL

Introduction
Situated on a remote clif in the eastern part of
the Baltic island of Gotland, a hilltop complex
built sometime during the late Early Iron Age
(AD 0–550) commands a view over what is
today a great woodland territory (ig. 2). An area
of c. 1.5 ha is enclosed by vertical precipices up
to 15 metres steep in the north, east and west,
as well as a 120 metre-long and 2.5 metre-high
transverse dry-stone wall in the south (igs. 1 and
8). Within this area, the remains of a number
of substantial stone-house foundations, similar
to those of the late Early Iron Age landscapes
of the rest of Gotland and the adjacent island,
Öland, are visible even today. his complex
is known as Herrgårdsklint (en. Clif of the
manor) and was once given the antiquarian

designation “clif-fort” (Sw. klintborg), a term
which will be shown to be anything but simple,
and seems to have been somewhat forgotten by
archaeologists. he following article is based
on results obtained from a recently initiated
archaeological project1, the aim of which is to
remedy the weak empirical situation and create
a more nuanced image of the diverse Gotlandic
clif-forts2. Below, I will argue that there
are several indications that Herrgårdsklint
might constitute a fortiied hill-site (Sw. befäst
höjdbosättning); a phenomenon that has
recently attracted archaeological attention,
formerly being mainly known, in Scandinavian
research, on the East Middle Swedish mainland.
If so, this hilltop complex would have been
central to the Gotlandic Early Iron Age élite.
Before a discussion of Herrgårdsklint in the
centuries following A.D. can begin, however, a
brief review of past research focuses within the
discourse, as well as a study of the terminology,
is necessary.

GOTLANDHILLFORTY

To deconstruct a cliff-fort
Traditionally, Gotland’s hill-forts have
been divided into three subgroups; clifforts
(Sw. klintborgar), lat ground-forts (Sw.
latmarksborgar) and bog-forts (Sw. myrborgar)
(Stenberger 1940a: 66). he irst subgroup
consists of remains which can be described as
the general idea of how a hill-fort is supposed
to be; great stone walls erected on an elevated
position which together completely enclose
an area (e.g. Torsburgen). But such an old
term also conceals constructions which are
made up of nothing more than a single row
of stones which seems to encircle a clif or a
hilltop in an almost symbolic way (e.g. Lärbro
RAÄ 17). Since few of the Gotlandic hill-forts

have been archaeologically excavated, the idea
that topographic and geographic location is
synonymous with function and dating has been
popular in modern archaeological research
(e.g. Cassel 1998, 2008). Furthermore, the
sheer absence of clif-forts afected by large
contract archaeological projects, usually the
result of the often extensive empirical data
associated with the types of investigations that
also serve as a catalyst for continued research
interest (Olausson 1995), simply do not exist.
his lack of empirical data might be one
factor contributing to why traditional ideas
concerning the clif-forts have been, for the
most part, unchallenged.
here have been two main ields of research
interest within the discourse. For the majority
of the 1900s, interpretations of the so-called

forts were dominated by expositions
of military strategies and various sorts of
fortiication, as a rule often combined with
accounts of the supposed unrest during
Roman Iron Age/Migration Period (e.g.
Nihlén and Boëthius 1933, Stenberger 1945;
1964, Lundström 1955, Manneke 1979,
Engström 1984). It was not until the 1990s
and early 2000s, as postmodern theories
began to inluence archaeological studies, that
alternative interpretations started to dispute the
“clif-fort as strictly a fort” paradigm. Instead
of accentuating the military aspects of the
constructions, they came to advocate an
understanding based on more symbolic
premises of the monuments. hus, the mental
and ritual nature of the clif-forts became the
focal point (e.g. Cassel 1998, 2008; Hegardt
1991a, 1991b; Swedish mainland material: see

Johansen 1997, Carlsson 2001, 2005, Wall
2003). Although these studies can be described
as a breath of fresh air in a ield of research
which, with few exceptions (e.g. Olausson
1995), can be described as stagnant for quite
some time, they had a tendency to theorize
outside the framework of the empirical data,
which, although meagre, nevertheless existed.
As I have previously shown, (Bornfalk-Back
2011) there are great variations within the
long-assumed homogeneous category of
“clif-fort”, and all attempts to come up with
a general explanation of these 28 Gotlandic
hilltop monuments have been fairly hopeless,

regardless of the theoretical approach (ig. 3).
Evidently, it is the generally weak empirical
knowledge that has contributed to these rather
one-dimensional attitudes towards the hilltop
sites. As a necessary start to a newly aware
discourse, then, it is critical to appreciate the
fact that within the antiquarian term “clif-fort”
(and indeed “hill-fort”!), there are a number
of diverse remains with various functions and
various dating (Bornfalk-Back 2011).
With this discussion in mind, the very
term clif-fort must be said to be poor as it
linguistically implies a construction associated
with fortiication and war, which might be true
for some of the remains, but far from all. I hope
to return with a more thorough terminological
discussion within the hill-fort ield elsewhere
and thus will here conine myself to the
suggestion that the most suitable term for
Herrgårdsklint is, for the moment, fortiied
hill-site, a descriptively acceptable term which
has been used for a special kind of defendable
aristocratic hilltop settlement from the late
Early Iron Age in the East Middle Swedish
mainland (see below).

 

GOTLANDHILLFORT1
Herrgårdsklint in previous
archaeological research
he stone wall and house foundations on the
clif are presently one of a kind on Gotland,
and the remains were noticed early by
antiquarians. he Swedish cultural historian
C.G.G. Hilfeling (1740–1823) paid a visit to
Herrgårdsklint in the 1790s and in addition to
documenting the dimensions of the remains,
he also suggested that the hilltop complex was
probably a place of refuge in times of unrest
(Hilfeling 1994: 236–7). he next visit nearly

80 years later, however, can be described as the
true birth of modern Swedish archaeological
hill-fort discourse. he archaeologist Fredrik
Nordin (1852–1920) not only described
Herrgårdklint and other clif-forts, but also
divided them into subgroups which resulted
in the publication Om Gotlands fornborgar
(1881). He visited Herrgårdsklint twice and
the eminent scholar stated that, based on the
substantial house foundations, the hilltop
complex was erected “not merely for the
moment” (Nordin 1881: 32).
Two minor archaeological excavations have
been carried out at Herrgårdsklint. In 1940,
the Swedish archaeologist Mårten Stenberger
excavated what turned out to be two of the
at least six stone house foundations (ig. 4),
whose wall dimensions (up to 1.75 metres in
width and a current height of up to 0.80 m)
appeared to be similar to those of other late
Early Iron Age house foundations across the
island, most of which date to AD 200–600
(Stenberger 1940b; Burenhult 1999:224).
Aside from two larger hearths, about 1500
sherds of plain Early Iron Age period pottery
and more than 18 kg of animal bone material
were found (Stenberger 1940b). A bridle,
probably from later re-use of the site, was
also found and could be dated to late Iron
Age (Biörnstad 1955: 949). In the beginning
of the 1980s, a smaller trench was put right
where the wall would have continued in the
south if it were not for modern removal of
stone for building material. he wall proved
to be constructed mostly of limestone, but no
datable artefacts were found (Engström 1982:
172, 1984:3).

GOTLANDHILLFORT3

Surprisingly little has been written about
Herrgårdsklint over the years, and I would argue
that what has been printed is not satisfactory,
but rather has had a tendency to simplify this
unique monument. For instance, the long widespread
idea that the Gotlandic clif-forts
were impermanent in character contributed to
the demotion of the at least six massive stone
house foundations to the status of simple wind
breakers (Biörnstad 1955: 916). his naturally
made the site less exciting to researchers overall.
Also, no one has ever studied Herrgårdsklint
from a local viewpoint, but rather as a mere
member of the artiicially constructed “cliffort
mass” (e.g. Cassel 1998: 132, 144; 2008:
90–93) or as a secondary element to other
archaeological phenomenon; e.g. part of a lank
defence to the gigantic hill-fort Torsburgen
(Engström 1984: 106). I would like to suggest
that a new approach that puts Herrgårdsklint
in the spotlight of eastern Gotland during late
Early Iron Age might bring together the site not
only with the surrounding landscape, but also
with the East Middle Swedish mainland.

A brief glance at
the Swedish mainland, and beyond…
As mentioned above, it is necessary to recognize
the diferences among constructions within
the “clif-fort mass”, and in the term fortiied
hill-site there are some speciic characteristics
which can be mentioned here. hese hilltop
complexes are all heavily defended by great
walls and inside the enclosure there are
buildings which were permanently inhabited.
It seems, at least in East Middle Sweden, that
these sites were established sometime during
the later part of the Early Iron Age (c. AD
200–550), though the precise nature of the sites,

as well as their relation to the surrounding
settlements, is still debatable. Although few
have been archaeologically excavated, there
are some constructions almost exclusively in
the East Middle Swedish mainland which
have been identiied as fortiied hill-sites,
which include sites around Mälaren (e.g.
Runsa, Darsgärde, Broborg), Södertörn (e.g.
Fållnäs) and Östergötland (e.g. Gullborg,
Boberget). One must keep in mind that even
if these constructions should be viewed as élite
residences, their function within society need
not have been identical in all matters (Olausson
2011a: 19).
Runsa borg is a very well fortiied hill-site in
Uppland, slightly north of Stockholm, and
through extensive excavations an aristocratic
milieu has been exposed with a hall building
and areas of handcraft, e.g. bronze casting, with
inds of, for instance, fragments of glass with
possible provincial Roman origin (Olausson
2011a, 2011b, 2009, 1996). he animal bone
material indicates luxury consumption and
since during the centuries following AD Runsa
borg was situated on a small island divided
from the mainland by a narrow inlet, the hillsite
was dependent on the control of a large
agrarian hinterland for goods and supplies
(Risberg 2011; Olausson 2011b: 237–8).
In the province of Östergötland, the existence
of fortiied hill-sites has also been recognized.
For instance, within the 350 metre-long and up
to 15 metre-wide dry-stone wall in Borgberget,
Kimstad parish, two substantial stone house
foundations have been observed. During a
minor excavation in the 1960s, inds such
as spindle whorls, whetstone and pots

herds date the remains to the late Early Iron Age
(Lindahl 1963). Another illustrative example
from Östergötland is the site Gullborg. Just
as at Runsa borg, extraordinary inds such as
an imported beaker from the Black Sea area
and a Roman glass bottle indicate a upper
class environment (Nordén 1938: 280–284;
Nielsen 1996: 87 with ref.). he occurrence
of imported Roman/Continental artefacts in
settings similar to Herrgårdsklint might be a
critical observation for the understanding of
the Gotlandic hill-site, which so far has no high
status inds.
At last, a region that would be exceptionally
exciting to study within the discourse is the
eastern part of the Baltic Sea area. If fortiied
hill-sites such as the ones recognized in East
Middle Sweden and now Gotland can be
identiied in this area, a whole new dimension
to the study of these remarkable remains would
be gained.

GOTLANDHILLFORT33
A revisit to Herrgårdsklint
A crucial task of the study of Herrgårdsklint
must, at this stage, be more precise dating. Until
new archaeological excavations are carried out,
the pottery inds from the 1940s excavation are
the only material available. However, it seems
to be diicult to get a speciic dating, other than
late Early Iron Age, from the plain fragmental
pieces (Stenberger 1955: 1173; Biörnstad 1955:
949). Still, other aspects are able to be clariied
by a new pottery analysis, since the original
one merely established the simple nature of
the sherds. Vessels for storage, preparations as
well as serving could be identiied among the
material. Several of the identiied lower parts
of the pots show evidence of an open angle 

which would have been suitable for food,
which, in contrast to vessels used for storage
alone, were to be visualized and consumed
at once (Eriksson 2009: 160). Also, based on
reconstructions of the mouth diameter, several
pots had the mouth measurements of 25 cm,
and hence might have had the potential to
accommodate up to 20 litres of luid (Eriksson
2009: 83). he smaller pots should most likely be
understood as vessels used in food preparation.
Since there are indications that these fortiied
hill-sites were rather short lived, perhaps as
brief as only 3–4 generations as Runsa borg
(Olausson 2011b: 239), the total amount of
pottery (1500 sherds/c. 7 kg) combined with
the total amount of bone material (c. 18 kg)
found in the two houses suggest quite intensive
activity at Herrgårdsklint compared to the
material found in similar house foundations
on Gotland (e.g. Lundberg 1937, Stenberger
[ed.] 1955a: 100–254; 1955b: 863–976). hus,
based on the pottery, the overall picture must
at present be said to indicate that everyday
domestic chores such as cooking, serving and
the storage of food dominated these buildings,

which, based on the quantity, should be viewed
as intensely inhabited.
The animals from Herrgårdsklint
Osteologist Lisa Hartzell’s project performed a
thorough analysis of the animal bone material
found in two of the house foundations. he
majority of the material consists of an equal
amount of cattle, sheep and goat inds, with
single inds of horse and dog. he most striking
result was that while the bones of the sheep
and goats were consistent with the meat-rich
parts of the animals, as well as the waste, the
cattle bones found were 99 % waste material
(Bornfalk-Back 2013). his suggests that the
sheep and goats were slaughtered and consumed
at the site while the cattle was slaughtered and
dismembered at Herrgårdsklint, but then
consumed elsewhere. Where the consumption
took place is, of course, a central question.
Was the beef transported to a nearby location
for consumption or was it sold or traded
and, if so, to where and to whom? Another
important aspect to consider: the bone
material might give greater insight into the
question of the permanence of the settlement
at Herrgårdsklint. Based on the fragmentary,
yet rather large, animal bone material, a
cautious conclusion is that the site was perhaps
at least seasonally inhabited, since it would
seem that people found it meaningful to bring
cattle to the site with the intent of engaging in
specialized beef production.
To locate areas of more intense activity at
Herrgårdsklint a soil phosphate analysis
(citronsyrametoden) was carry out on the
site (Bornfalk Back 2013). East and south
of the house foundations no or extremely

thin soil layer prevented the sampling, which
concentrated to the northern parts of the
clif. he elevated values of the soil phosphate
sampling indicate activity in three places
within the sampling area . Obviously,
to clarify the nature of activity archaeological
excavations are necessary.
The Roman inluences
It is clear that people from what is today East
Middle Sweden interacted, to various degrees,
with the Roman Empire during the early
centuries AD. hrough trade and service within
the Roman military apparatus, ighting against
Roman troops, and indirect contact via non-
Roman people living close to Limes, new ideas
and artefacts found their way to Scandinavia
(e.g. Andersson 1991; Axboe 1991; Jørgensen et
al [red] 2003; Kalif and Sundqvist 2004). For
Gotland’s part, inds of Roman glass, solidi,
gold bracteates, as well as a recently recovered
Roman oicer’s parade mask dating to the
later part of 200 AD (Widerström 2012: 31)
tell us of intense contact between members of
the élite of the island and the Roman Empire.
Although there is an absence, at the moment,
of high status inds related to the settlement
on the clif, it is possible to distinguish other
features, which suggests that the architect of
Herrgårdsklint was an individual of means and,
for the region, a unique know-how. Bearing the
discussion of Roman connections in mind, the
best way to understand the extensive entrance
construction of the only opening to the stone
wall of Herrgårdsklint might be through the
“home-comer’s perspective”. he unusual
construction is made up of a curved wall section
continuing from the main wall of the eastern
part of the more than three metre-wide entrywith an opening in the west  his once
dry-stone structure seems to have had the same
dimensions as the sections of the main wall (c.
4 metres wide), and a rectangular open space.
I would like to suggest that this architectural
construction indicates that the architects of
Herrgårdsklint were quite familiar with the
engineering methods used by the Imperial
Roman army.
he Roman castra (marching camps) were a
central part of the invasion tactic, and although
they could vary in size and layout, they were
all strongly fortiied, sometimes, especially
during the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D., with a
sort of defendable entrance construction called
clavicula (Johnson 1983: 50; Frere 1987: 211).
A clavicula was an arched extension of the defensive rampart and could be either external
or internal (ig. 7). he idea was to prohibit a
direct frontal assault at the gate by forcing the
enemy through a sideway where they were thus
more exposed to the defenders. It can also be
mentioned as a proof of its eiciency that this
defensive construction was utilized by the later
Byzantine army. It was not only described by
the emperor Maurices (A.D. 582–602) in his
Strategikon (trans. Dennis 1984: 164), but also
recommended by Byzantine military leaders
as late as in the tenth century A.D., as can be
seen in contemporary military texts (trans.
Dennis 1985: 251, 257–260). It is obvious that
the entrance construction at Herrgårdsklint
displays remarkable similarities to a Roman
clavicula in layout, and I would argue that
this particular defensive structure could only
be built with the help of the advanced level
of expertise that could only be provided by
a Germanic soldier returning from years of
service in the Roman military apparatus.
Previous discussions (Herschend 1985) of
constructional details of the entrances to the
Eketorp ring-fort on the island of Öland have
pointed towards Roman examples. Although
these ring-forts, which more or less can be
described as fortiied villages, and the fortiied
hill-sites are two separate phenomena, they
were in part contemporary with each other and
a cautious comparison is motivated. However,
it is crucial to emphasize that Herrgårdsklint
should not be viewed as an attempt to imitate a
castra in either function or design, nor should
one necessarily see the defendable nature of the
entrance construction as the key motivation.
Essential, I would say, is the Roman aspect:
by demonstrating a unique knowledge in
fortiication techniques obtained from thecontinent, additional prestige was gained,
justifying the lord of the clif’s position in the
social hierarchy.

GOTLANDHILLFORT44
Herrgårdsklint was built on a remote clif
relatively far from other Early Iron Age
settlement, with no cultivated land nearby
(ig. 2), and thus a signiicant question is:
why? At this stage, any ideas on the matter
must be described as speculative, but one
thought worth mentioning is the importance
of Herrgårdsklint potentially superb location
from a communicative standpoint. Since the
new results indicate that Herrgårdsklint was at
least semi-permanently inhabited, the people
living on the clif were dependent on a steady
supply of food and other goods from elsewhere,
much like Runsa Borg (see above). his, in
turn, implies that a large hinterland must have
been under the control of the residents of the
clif to secure this provision. Herrgårdsklint
is today situated only 5 km from Gotland’s
eastern coast, where good locations of Iron Age
ports have been discussed (Engström 1984:
99–103). Since a large part of Gotland’s lakes
and rivers were drained during the 1800s and
early 1900s for agricultural purposes, a possible
explanation worth studying is the occurrence
of now vanished navigable waterways. If these
were to connect Herrgårdsklint with the coast,
and a potential port, it would not have been
diicult to provide the site with both foodstuf
and commodities.

Future questions
Although the initiation of this project has
proven to be a productive irst step in the task of
generating a more solid empirical foundation,
as well as challenging traditional ideas withrespect to Gotlandic clif-forts, it has merely
scratched the surface. A central future task is to
obtain a more precise dating of Herrgårdsklint
and its phases. his can only be achieved by way
of new archaeological excavations. Questions
concerning precise time of establishment,
abandonment, re-use, relation to other
contemporary settlements in the area, the exact
nature of dwelling (permanent/seasonal use)
etc. can only be answered via such excavations.
From a local viewpoint, an exciting thought
is whether Herrgårdsklint is the only hill-site

on Gotland, and, if this is the case,
what does this mean for the island as a whole
during late Early Iron Age? In addition, the
relation between Herrgårdsklint and other
fortiied hill-sites on the Swedish mainland is
an interesting matter for future study. Also, if
fortiied hill-sites were to be identiied in the
adjacent eastern Baltic, it would be a crucial
task to study the relationship between areas
with the same aristocratic tradition.

Many thanks to homas Eriksson (SHM) for
making the pottery material available.

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King Bjorn “Ironside” Ragnarsson of Sweden 1st Ruler of Munso Dynasty – CLAN CARRUTHERS CCIS

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Bjorn Ironside: Son of Famed Viking Ragnar Lodbrok Became Legendary King of Sweden  777-859

CARRUTHERS ANCESTOR

Viking Bjorn Ironside

Bjorn Ironside was a famous Viking leader who legends say ruled Sweden as the first king from the House of Munsö. He lived during the 9th century AD and his father was the legendary Ragnar Lodbrok. Ironside followed family tradition in raiding and he used his skills to trick his way into the Eternal City, which he promptly looted.

King Bjorn “Ironside” Ragnarsson of Sweden was born in Denmark to Aslaug “Kraaka” (die Krähe) “Randalin” (Schildmaid) Sigurdsdatter “Königin von Dänemark” and Ragnar Lodbrok Von Dänemark Und Schweden.  He died in 859 in Stockholm, Stockholm, Sweden.

Following in the Family ‘Business’

According to The Saga of Ragnar Lodbrok and His Sons , Bjorn Ironside was the son of Ragnar Lodbrok and Aslaug. Bjorn had an older brother, Ivar the Boneless, and two younger ones, Hvitserk (speculated by some to have been the nickname of Halfdan Ragnarsson) and Sigurd Snake-in-the-Eye. He also had several half-brothers, including Eirik and Agnar.

History’s ‘Vikings’ version of a young Bjorn Ironside. (CC BY SA)

History’s ‘Vikings’ version of a young Bjorn Ironside. ( CC BY SA )

Like their father, the sons of Ragnar Lodbrok conducted raids around Europe. In The Saga of Ragnar Lodbrok and His Sons , it is stated that Bjorn Ironside and his brothers continued their father’s raiding activities, and terrorized the areas of England, Normandy, France, and Lombardy.

It is also written that the furthest that the brothers got to was Luni, an Italian town on the border of Liguria and Tuscany. The story goes that the Vikings had heard of the wealth contained in the Eternal City and were bent on raiding it. Therefore, Bjorn teamed up with another Viking leader, Hastein, to launch an expedition into the Mediterranean.

View of the Roman amphitheater in Luni, Italy. (CC BY SA 4.0)

View of the Roman amphitheater in Luni, Italy.

The Vikings sailed along the Atlantic coast of the Iberian Peninsula, though their raids met with little success in both Christian and Muslim territories. When they arrived in the Strait of Gibraltar, however, their luck changed, and they are recorded to have sacked several cities on both the North African coast as well as the southern part of the Iberian Peninsula. Sailing and raiding along the southern coast of the Frankish Empire, the Vikings eventually arrived on the northwestern coast of Italy. The first town that was sacked was Luni, which the Vikings had mistaken for Rome.

Trickery Works Where Sieging Fails
As the Vikings began to besiege Luni, they realized that the town’s fortifications were so sturdy, and foresaw that the siege would drag on for some time. Realizing that it would be futile to try to take the town by brute force, the Vikings resorted to trickery. There are two main versions of the story…

According to one, Bjorn (or Hastein) sent messengers to the bishop of Luni to inform him of their leader’s death. On his deathbed, however, he had converted to Christianity, and it was his dying wish to be buried on consecrated ground. Believing this to be true, the bishop allowed several Vikings to bring the body of their leader into the town. Once they entered Luni, Bjorn jumped out of his coffin, fought his way to the town’s gates, and opened it, thus allowing the Vikings to capture Luni. In a variation of the tale, Bjorn did not pretend to be dead, but rather that he was seriously ill, and intended to convert to Christianity before he died.

Bjorn Ironside Returns North
Having sacked Luni, Bjorn and his Vikings continued inland, sailing up the River Arno, and laying waste to Pisa and Fiesole. The Vikings’ movement become a little uncertain after this, and they are rumored to have sailed to the Eastern Mediterranean.

They reappear off the coast of the Iberian Peninsula, where they are recorded to have been defeated by a Muslim force whilst heading back home. As many as 40 Viking ships are said to have been destroyed by the Muslims, though Bjorn survived, and managed to bring home most of his loot.

Finally, The Saga of Ragnar Lodbrok and His Sons mentions that “Bjorn Ironside got Uppsala and central Sweden and all the lands that belong to that,” Thus, it has been claimed that Bjorn was a king of Sweden, and the founder of the House of Munsö.

During the 18th century, a barrow was discovered on the island of Munsö and antiquarians claimed that it belonged to Bjorn, thus naming his dynasty after this island.

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SVEND I HARALDSSON THE FIRST VIKING KING OF ENGLAND – CARRUTHERS ANCESTOR – CLAN CARRUTHERS CCIS

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SVEND I HARALDSSON THE FIRST VIKING KING OF ENGLAND WITH THE CONQUEST OF ENGLAND 1013

In 1012, England had finally secured peace and security against foreign attackers, having endured a three-year Viking raid which had culminated in the brutal murder of the Archbishop of Canterbury. But any hopes of enjoying a long spell of peace and quiet were rudely shattered in early 1013 by the arrival of an invasion force led by the King of Denmark, Svend Forkbeard.
Svend’s army conquered England so quickly that by Christmas he was in control of the kingdom, but how did he achieve this feat of arms? Was it through defeating English armies on the battlefield and subjugating the survivors? Or was it through a mass change of allegiance on the part of the English nobility and clergy?
Sweyn I of Denmark - Wikidata
The apocalypse was not slow in arriving. In the spring of 1013, less than a year after Thorkell
the Tall stopped attacking them, a new and more deadly enemy returned to menace the
English. Svend Forkbeard was back. No one knows exactly why Svend chose to invade
England in 1013. He had taken part in raids on England in the 990s and in the previous
decade, but those were plundering raids, whereas what he now proposed to do was outright
conquest. One leading theory is that he feared that AEthelred would fund an attempt by
Thorkell the Tall to become King of Denmark, like he funded Óláfr Tryggvason’s campaign
to become King of Norway in 995, which had disrupted Svend’s hegemonic rule over
Scandinavia. Óláfr ruled Norway for four years before being killed at the battle of Svolder by
a naval coalition comprised of Svend’s navy, his Norwegian son-in-law Eiríkr Hákonarson’s
forces, and Svend’s Swedish allies.
Whatever his reasons for invading England were, Svend and his invasion fleet initially sailed
to Sandwich on the south coast, before going north to the mouth of the river Humber in
northern England and landing at Gainsborough. At this point it became clear that Svend had
been in contact with several English nobles before his arrival as he was welcomed by the
locals with open arms. To secure their loyalty, Svend had his son Cnut marry AElgifu of
Northampton, the daughter of Ealdorman AElfhelm. Her family wielded a huge amount of
influence in northern Mercia and southern Northumbria at that time due to their large estates
and extended family networks. They had suffered a major setback during the palace coup at
AEthelred’s court in 1006 when Ealdorman AElfhelm was murdered, and his sons were
blinded. As a result, they had an axe to grind against AEthelred and his supporters,
particularly Eadric Streona, who had risen to prominence at their expense. In short order,
most of northern and eastern England joined Svend, and provided him with all the supplies he
needed.
Sweyn Forkbeard - Alchetron, The Free Social Encyclopedia
The reasons why the English people switched their allegiances go deeper than cultural links
and blood feuds between rival noble families though. They had suffered huge amounts of
death and destruction at the hands of Viking raiders in the previous twenty years, whilst
AEthelred had utterly failed to fulfil his duty as King and defend them from attack. When
Svend arrived, he offered them a new deal which was that if they accepted him as their king,
then in return he would stop the Viking raids. They were more than happy to accept it since
AEthelred had failed to uphold his responsibilities to them, and they thought Svend would be
able to keep his word. In addition to this, there were also family and cultural links with
Scandinavia in the Danelaw of eastern England which helped to smooth over any issues in
that region.
Svend and his army now moved south and started pillaging once they left the lands held by
his new subjects. This was enough to frighten the populations of Oxford and Winchester to
surrender without a fight in return for a promise of protection, and the rest of England soon
followed suit and surrendered to Svend. The only place which stayed loyal to AEthelred was
London. Thorkell the Tall also remained loyal to him, but that was scant consolation for
AEthelred as the rest of the kingdom decided that they would prefer to have Svend as their
king instead of him. AEthelred, along with Emma and their children, sailed with Thorkell the
Tall to the Isle of Wight where they spent Christmas, before sailing for Normandy and exile.
AEthelred’s sons by his first marriage stayed behind in England and lay low, awaiting
developments. After AEthelred had departed, London submitted to Svend, who then
demanded hostages from the entire English nobility as a safeguard against treachery.
Sweyn Forkbeard – First Viking King of Britain | Annoyz View
So, that was that. Svend had conquered England, a kingdom with far more people, money,
and land than his own, in a matter of months. The principal reason why he had been so
successful was because instead of fighting him, the English decided to change sides and join
him in his campaign against AEthelred. As the political and military momentum had shifted
in Svend’s favour due to his seemingly unending series of successes, he attracted more and
more defectors who were eager to join the winning side before it was too late. The result was
that as 1013 drew to a close, Svend enjoyed the support of most of the English nobility and
clergy, with no signs of resistance to his rule in sight.
As 1014 began, Svend was secure on the English throne. All he needed to do to make his new
title legitimate in the eyes of the rest of Christian Europe was to hold a coronation. AEthelred
was in exile in Normandy with his ducal in-laws, who were not particularly inclined to be
helpful in supporting a campaign to reconquer England. Even if AEthelred could gather an
army, cross the Channel, and get ashore without being intercepted, his chances of success
looked hopeless whilst Svend’s grip on England was so strong. But for all that things looked
set in stone, the wheel of fortune was still turning…
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Gutland / Gotland, OUR ANCESTORS, The History of Gutland, The Viking Age

CLAN CARRUTHERS – LANGUAGE OF THE GOTS

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LANGUAGE OF THE GOTS / GOTHS

In the Gothic Bible is a Lord’s Prayer, as we well know.  No, the Gots or Goths of Gutland / Gotland are no heathen pagans.  They were some of the early Christians.    The Lords prayer is written in two of the Gots dialects and English.

ramme

Atta unsar þu in himinam,
Fader vor du i himlen.
Father our, you in heaven,
Weihnai namo þein.
Helligt være navnet dit.
hallowed be the name yours,
Qimai þiudinassus þeins.
(lad) Komme kongeriget dit.
(let) come kingdom yours.
Wairþai wilja þeins,
(lad) ske viljen din,
(let) be done will yours,
swe in himina jah ana airþai.
Som i himlen og på jorden.
As in heaven and on earth.
Hlaif unsarana þana sinteinan gif uns himma daga.
brød vort dette daglig giv os (i) disse dage.
bread our daily give us in these days.
Jah aflet uns þatei skulans sijaima,
og forlad os hvilken skyld vi måtte være (have).
And forgive us which guilts we may (have).
Swaswe jah weis afletam þaim skulam unsaraim.
Samt vi forlader skyldene vore.
And we forgive them that have guilts against us.
jah ni briggais uns in fraistubnjai,
og ikke bring os i fristelse,
And not bring us into temptation.
ak lausei uns af þamma ubilin.
Men løs os fra det onde.
but deliver us from evil.
Unte þeina ist þiudangardi jah mahts jah wulþus in aiwins.
thi dit er kongedømme og magt og herlighed i evighed.
For yours is kingdom and power and glory in eternity.
Amen.
Amen.
Amen

ramme

Gothic text from “Deutche Sprache gestern und heute” by Astrid Stedje.
Gothic – Danish – English

Gothic, as spoken by both the Western as the Eastern Goths was a Germanic language closely connected to modern Scandinavian, German and English. Thanks to the Gothic Wulfila Bible, which was written in Italy in the sixth century and the Fleming Busbeccq’s notes about his meeting with representatives of a small group of long-surviving Goths in the Crimea, whom he met in Constantinople in the 16. century, we have a fairly good knowledge of the Gothic language.

The Gothic Bible is a translation from Greek to Gothic of the four Gospels in the New Testament, as well as a part of Paul’s letters. It contains almost nothing of the Old Testament.

We recognize the majority of words from German and Scandinavian. Atta means father as in “æt”, the old Danish word for family or lineage. Unsar we find the German “uns” (us). þu we find in Danish and German “du” and English “you”, in similar to “in” German and English and “i” in Danish. Himian similar to “himmel” (sky) in Danish and German. In the first syllable of Weinai we recognize the German Weinacht (Christmas Eve) Namo means “name” as in English and German and “navn” in Danish. Wilja is corresponding to “vilje” in Danish, “will” in English and “wille” in German. The preposition ana is corresponding to the German “an”, which also has been used in Danish and is still in use in compound words and phrases as “anledning” (occasion), “angive” (inform) and “anliggende” (matter) as well as the English “on”. Hlaif corresponds to “leve”, an old Danish word for bread, as well as the English “loaf”. Aflet and afletam gives associations to the Danish “aflede” (divert). Gif is equivalent to “giv” in Danish, “to give” in English and “geben” in German. Himma corresponds to the old Danish “hine” (these) Daga corresponds to “dage” in Danish, “days” in English and “Tage” in German. Skulans means guilt, as a scowling (“skule” in Danish) person may look like a guilty person. Ak means “but”, indicating that a traditional Danish or German exclamation of sorry “ak-ak” or “ach-ach” originally could have ment “but-but”. Lausei corresponds to the Danish “løse”, German lösen and English “lose”. Ubilin corresponds to “Übel” (evil) in German. Mahts corresponds to “magt” in Danish, “might” in English and “Macht” in German. þiudan-gardi has two parts, the first one is something with þiu , which is “king” in Gothic, and the other has to do with -gardi , which is “gård” (farm or enclosure) in Danish, geard in Old English and “gard” in Old Saxon – here it refers to a type of category.

The Gothic Bible also includes the Christmas story from Luke ch. 2: Warþ þan in dagans jainans, urrann gagrefts fram kaisara Agustau, gameljan allana midjungard.

Literal translation: It came to pass and in days those, (that) there went out decree from Caesar Augustus (that) should be taxed all (in) the world.

Crimean-
Gothic
Flemish
Danish
German
English
broe
brood
brød
brot
bread
plut
bloed
blod
blut
blood
stul
stoel
stol
stuhl
chair
hus
huys
hus
haus
house
wingart
wijgaert
vin
wein
wine
reghen
regen
regn
regen
rain
bruder
broeder
broder
bruder
brother
schwester
zuster
søster
schwester
sister
alt
oud
gammel
alt
old
vintch
wind
vind
wind
wind
silvir
zilver
sølv
silber
silver
golltz
goud
guld
gold
gold
kor
koren
korn
korn
grain
salt
zout
salt
salt
salt
fisct
visch
fisk
fisch
fish
hoef
hoofd
hoved
kopf
head
thurn
deure
dør
tür
door
stern
star
stjerne
stern
star
sune
zon
sol
sonne
sun
mine
maen
måne
mond
moon
tag
dag
dag
tag
day
oeghene
oogen
øjne
augen
eyes
bars
baert
skæg
bart
beard
handa
hand
hånd
hand
hand

Extract from the list of words that the Fleming Ogier Ghislain de Busbecq heard from two representatives of the Goths on the Crimea during a dinner in Constantinople around 1560. Krimgotisk by Poul Erik Jørgensen.

Note that the word for world, midjungard, is very similar to the Scandinavian Midgard.

There are three genders in Gothic namely masculine, feminine and neuter, as in modern German and old Danish. There are two times, past and present, as well as four kasus, namely nominative, accusative, genitive and dative and also, of course, singular and plural.

In Crimea lived Goths until about the 16. century. The Flemish Ogier Ghislain de Busbecqs, who was ambassador of the Holy Roman Empire in Constantinople 1560-62, has in his report provided us with knowledge of their language. He became aware that two representatives of the Goths on Crimea, whom he had heard of, were visiting Constantinople to present some cases for the Sultan. He managed to invite them to a dinner, during which he questioned them about their language and culture.

The definite article in Gothic was very similar to English. Busbecq told: “in front of all the words he puts tho or the”.

In Danish, we have retained the “sw” sound associated with sister in the names for the spouse family, “svoger” (brother in-law), “svigerfar” (father in-law), “svigermor” (mother in-law) and “svigerfamilie” (family in-law).

The two Gothic representatives also told Busbecq several other words that were not so similar to Flemish and German.

A page of Codex Argenteus

A page of the Wulfila Bible. It is also called “codex argenteus”, which means “Silver Bible”. It is believed that it was written for the Ostrogothic king of Italy, Theodoric the Great. Originally the Bible was translated from Greek to Gothic by Bishop Wulfila in the Balkans in the third century. It is written with the special Gothic alphabet, which was also created by Wulfila. It is called the silver bible because it is written with ink, which contains silver and gold on costly thin parchment. It was originally stored in the Benedictine monastery in Werden in Germany. It was looted by the Swedes in the Thirty Years’ War, and after a turbulent period it ended up in the University Library in Uppsala in Sweeden.

It is seen that Gothic differs from Danish and other Germanic languages by a number of words ending with -a, giving the language an exotic southern touch. The famous king of the Ostro-Goths was for example called Totilla and it sounds almost Mexican at least Spanish. It is believed that this frequent -a ending was an abbreviation, which replaced older, longer and more laborious endings. It is very imaginable that Spanish and to some extent Italian have the frequent -a endings from Gothic. Jordanes, who himself was a Goth, called occasionally the Heruls for “Erulos” which -os ending also sounds Spanish and Mediterranean, but Jordanes had never been to Spain, so it originates probably also from Gothic.

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The History of Gutland, The Viking Age, Uncategorized

CLAN CARRUTHERS-MESSAGES FROM PICTURE STONES

CLAN CARRUTHERS INT SOCIETY CCIS                                   PROMPTUS ET FIDELIS

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Messages from Ancient Stones

 

Gotland Picture Stones from the Viking Era

Ancient stories that belong to a world far removed from technology have horses and great ships as modes of transport on this ancient Picture Stone. A round disc with six points on a shield held by a warrior on horseback represents the Sun. The carved stones were limestone and there were three notable periods with different styles.

 

Ancient Carved Stone GotlandThis Gotland Picture Stone was created over a thousand years ago, about 700 – 800 CE and like many other stones on the island still holds secrets that are yet to be uncovered or confirmed. The story on this stone is in pictures and decoding the meaning is a complex task for history and iconography. Picture motifs were inscribed on gravestones, road markers, weapons and amulets. Norse myths and legends were not written down in words and so the pictures on stone are very precious records.

My painted drawing was sketched from one ornate carved Picture Stone, one of about four hundred known today, mostly from the island of Gotland, Sweden.  I have tried to be accurate with the detail. The Stones belonged to the Viking Age in Scandinavia and often reference Norse myths and legends. Ancient Stones and sometimes Rune Stones with Runic letters were erected and inscribed to commemorate fallen warriors, rituals, myths and legends.

In this keyhole shaped Picture Stone there are several panels above each other.  At the top the rider could be the God Odin astride the horse Sleipnir from Norse mythology. Sleipnir was the fastest of all horses and with Odin could travel between realms. The triple triangle or Valknut behind the horseman is the magical symbol in Nordic paganism for Odin. The horseman is welcomed by a female Valkyrie offering a drinking horn, possibly as a welcome to the Otherworld paradise or afterlife known as Valhalla.  Some believe it could be the Goddess Freya holding a cornucopia or cup of abundance.

In the middle band there are Runic letters from the ancient Runic Alphabet below what looks like a figure walking. The Runic alphabet originated among the Nordic peoples of Europe about two or three centuries before the Christian Era. Carved runic inscriptions sometimes issued warnings about the future or issued messages but mostly the letters on these Gotland Picture Stones simply named the memorialized person.

In the panel below this we see a common theme on Picture Stones: a Viking long ship with a crisscross sail. This time there are two figures on board, possibly representing the soul being transported to the afterlife. Below that are big abstracted shapes with an extending interlace pattern that could represent the waves carrying the ship to another realm. All the picture story panels are enclosed by a plait knotwork border.

Messages in these Picture Stones tell us about a different Age, an Age when horses were thought to carry the Sun across the sky and ships were the key to adventure and trade for an island people. The messages inspire the imagination and leave us with a sense of wonder about a pagan life before Christianity, a world of beliefs in gods and goddesses connected to the natural world.

 

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CLAN CARRUTHERS: ANCIENT GOTLAND

Clan Carruthers Int Society CCIS             Promptus et Fidelis

 

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ANCIENT GOTLAND

 

 

It stopped snowing. Suddenly, the sun broke through the clouds. Pale rays of light streamed through the forest and hit the snow-covered pre-Viking burial mounds of Trullhalsar gravefield; an engulfing mist began to rise. The air was heavy with the spirits of old warriors.

It seemed a magical place, the perfect setting for a Wagnerian opera, and I half expected the Valkyries to come riding out of the mist.

Trullhalsar is one of many archeological sites on Gotland, the largest island in the Baltic Sea. This Swedish island is an important historic area-but it is also one of the country`s most popular holiday resorts.

Film director Ingmar Bergman vacationed here. So did the late Prime Minister Olof Palme. Recently, the dramatic landscape of Faro, just north of Gotland, was the setting for the late Soviet director Andrei Tarkovsky`s film, ”The Sacrifice.”

Image result for visby gotland ferryMost visitors come by car ferry to Visby, Gotland`s provincial capital, on the west coast. This beautiful walled city is a mixture of medieval ramparts and towers, skeleton-like ruins of once great cathedrals, and red-roofed cottages lining cobblestone streets. The climate is mild compared with the rest of Sweden, so roses bloom in December in the gardens of Visby`s picturesque homes. ”The city of ruins and roses” is what Swedes call Visby. Off-season, this town of 20,000 is a sleeping beauty. Having arrived at dawn one day in April while it was still slumbering, my husband and I decided to have coffee in a shop at the harbor while waiting for the town to wake.

Image result for visby gotland coffeeshopOther early risers crowded the casual coffee shop. A blond waitress, wearing a red polka-dot apron, was ladling hearty portions of oatmeal porridge as dock workers waited in line. Two policemen sat talking, bent over steaming coffee, their radios buzzing on the table. A loudspeaker above our heads was bellowing out the morning news. As a Stockholmer, I had a hard time following the announcer`s melodious Gotland accent.

The Gotland dialect of Swedish is the remnant of a once unique language. Even before Roman times, Gotland, strategically located in the middle of the Baltic, was an important trade center. Medieval Gotland merchants developed and controlled the trade routes between Russia and Europe. In the 12th Century, with the arrival of German merchants, Visby became one of the most important trade centers in northern Europe.

Reminiscent of medieval German cities, Visby has a 13th Century wall more than two miles long, one of the longest and best preserved in Europe. From its towers in the year 1361, residents watched the troops of Danish King Valdemar Atterdag defeat thousands of armed peasants and kill defenseless children.

That famous battle marked the beginning of decline for Visby and the prosperous republic of Gotland. Frequent attacks by pirates and foreign powers-and the eventual changing of trade routes-further diminished Visby`s power, and in 1645, Gotland became a Swedish province.

Image result for visby gotland wallToday, Gotland is subject to a new, more peaceful invasion. Only six hours from Stockholm by boat, the island hosts more than 200,000 visitors every year, quadrupling its population. Visitors are attracted by Sweden`s sunniest weather, sandy beaches and a unique landscape.

Signe Pettersson resides in the modern part of Visby outside the wall. She rents visitors rooms in her apartment. Showing us a bedroom with flowery wallpaper and lace curtains, Mrs. Pettersson`s daughter explained that her mother was in Stockholm, visiting her son.

Furnished with an antique kitchen settee, crochet curtains and well-tended geraniums, the large kitchen reminded me of a grandmother`s kitchen.

Sculpture-like graves

Visby is not the only historic attraction. Gotland has been inhabited for more than 7,000 years and as a result it is Sweden`s richest province when it comes to archeological findings. The island`s 1,200 square miles are dotted with Viking tombs, rune stones and foundations of Viking settlements. More than 200 Bronze Age cairns have been found. These stone formations, up to 90 feet long, are called ”boat graves” for their ship-like shape.

There are no fewer than 92 medieval churches on the island. Built after Gotland was christened in the 11th Century, they are mostly in Gothic style.

We drove east from Visby, passing soft fields, fir forests and red barns. At Ekeby, a little village in the interior, we decided to look more closely at the church. The door was locked. The only sign of life around came from a gas station, where a man was bending over the hood of a 1960s Volvo model PV. When asked how we could get inside the church, he looked up indifferently and pointed an oily index finger toward a white house across the field. ”That`s the vicarage,” he said. ”They`ll give you the key.”

The vicar`s wife gave me a rusty iron key, as big as my arm. Handing me a flashlight, she said: ”You will need this to find the light switch. It`s in a cabinet to your left as you enter. And don`t forget to switch it off when you leave.”

Frescos on walls

Inside, the walls were covered with frescos of biblical motifs. Behind the altar, the entire wall was painted to resemble a theater curtain. A beautifully carved and painted pulpit stood in the center. Spying a narrow, winding stone staircase, we decided to climb the bell tower. The last portion was a dizzying climb on creaking wooden stairs which lacked a railing and faced an open pit.

We reached the rotunda, where two large cast iron bells hung in the center. A flock of pigeons, disturbed in their sleep, flapped their wings and disappeared through one of the small windows. Brown fields, plowed and awaiting spring sowing, spread in all directions. From my vantage point, I counted nine church towers nearby.

Seven churches later, after stopping several times to take photographs, we arrived in Roma, a village in the island`s center. The church was impressive, built on the foundations of an older church. Following the learned routine, I went to the vicarage to ask for the key. This time the vicar himself answered the door. I was startled by his appearance. The tall, blond, boyish-looking man was dressed in a long black gown and a starched white collar.

Noticing my surprise at his formal attire, he smiled and explained he had just returned from a funeral service. Unlike their early ancestors in their yards and yards of finley woven plaids, dye with the treasures of Mother Nature.

As he strode across the cemetery toward the church, coat-tails flapping in the wind, the young man looked like a 19th Century Lutheran vicar.

Sound of Bach

Image result for curch with wooden bellThe sunlight poured through the stained glass rose windows, creating patterns on the nave`s floor. Notes of Bach`s St. Matthew Passion floated in the air. The organist was practicing for an Easter concert. The vicar, new to the parish, began to explain details of his church. He also told how Sunday services alternate between different churches since each parish is too small to fill their church.

 

By the wooden bell tower next to Roma church, an old woman was planting flowers on a grave. Looking up, she smiled and said: ”Spring came early this year. Let`s see if these flowers will survive.”

Looking at our cameras, she said: ”You are from Stockholm.”

I explained that though I was a Stockholmer, my husband and I had just arrived from Chicago. Surprised and pleased that we had come so far to visit her island, she began telling us about the village.

We talked about Gotland`s economic dependence on agriculture. Lacking necessary resources to mechanize for increased productivity, many small-scale farms have closed, diminishing job opportunities. Many, including her children, have moved away from the island.

We drove south, past meadows where the tiny but sturdy indigenous ponys, Russ, roamed. The Scandinavian dusk, which would last another hour, turned the sky crimson. In this glowing light, the windmills and the typical cottages with pitched, thatched roofs took on magical forms.

We arrived at Bjorklunda pension tired and hungry. The innkeeper told us that though business was slow at present, the pension was fully booked throughout the summer. After settling in a comfortable two-room cottage, we walked the 100 yards to the main building for dinner. Other guests were helping themselves to a generous salad bar. We ordered lamb stew, a local specialty, and beer.

The morning was cool and brisk, the air pristine and the horizon clearly visible. It was a day for using the bicycles we had brought with us. The flat landscape and a coastline with unspoiled beaches has made Gotland immensly popular with cyclists. There are numerous bicycle tracks and roads, all marked on cycling maps, and many shops on the island rent and service bicycles.

Sailboats are rigged

Image result for visby sailboatsWe stopped in Ljugarn, a town on the east coast, to buy provisions. Ljugarn harbor was once an important fishing center. Now it is quiet because big trawlers have gone elsewhere. But every spring, the smell of turpentine and the sound of hammers banging come from the red boat houses as sailboats are rigged for the season.

Bundles of the morning paper had just been delivered to the kiosk on the main square. Old men lined up, discussing the day`s headlines. A woman came out of the store, struggling with shopping bags and two young children. Schoolboys zigzagged on skateboards, well aware they were being watched by two giggling girls, sitting on a bench. A fisherman climbed off his bicycle to mail a letter. He paused in front of the bulletin board, filled with church notices, the schedule for the local soccer team and sale signs for boat engines and cars.

After buying crisp bread, ham and the famous sweet and spicy Gotland mustard, we headed for the beach.

North of Ljugarn, the landscape changed dramatically. Sandy dunes and trees, twisted and tormented by the wind, led to the sea. Fantastic sculptured rock formations, resembling petrified giants, were scattered along the shore. The limestone columns, called raukar, are carved by the sea, and are one of Gotland`s most famous geological wonders.

Beyond the rauk field was the cold, blue Baltic, where the Vikings once took off on arduous trade routes. Fearing plundering by their enemies, they often buried their treasures, sometimes so cleverly they never found them. To this day, the plows of Gotland farmers unearth coins from Ancient Rome and the Byzantine Empire. Some discoveries are on display at the Fornsal Museum in Visby.

In the summer, Visby hosts historic plays, music festivals and Viking sports tournaments. The romantic streets, so quiet and void in winter, are now packed with tourists. Artists and ceramists sell their wares and take new orders to keep them busy through the winter. Restaurants, cafes and discotheques open their doors. Sailboats line up in the marina. The ferry arrives, spewing its contents of cyclists and families in Volvos, heading for cottages or campsites by the sea. By midsummer, this sleeping beauty is awake, regaining some of the vitality of its heyday seven centuries ago. –

 

 

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Maria Nillsson, Chicago IL  USA

 

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